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Devoré Paste And Fiber Etch Instructions
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Click here to view Devoré Samples
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General Information...
Devoré is the process used to make etched or burn out fabric. Devoré, French derivative of to devour, aptly describes the process of "eating away" an area or layer of fiber to create decorative etched
designs.
Devoré gel, Fiber-Etch, may be purchased ready to apply or a Devoré Paste may be made from purchased ingredients.
This Devoré Paste or Fiber Etch removes cellulose fibers (cotton, linen, hemp and ramie). It does not remove protein fibers (silk and wool) or synthetic fibers (polyester, nylon and acrylic).
The medium is applied to selected areas, dried, heated then rinsed to remove the fiber and reveal the design.
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Fabric Choices...
Pure cellulose or composite cellulose/protein or cellulose/synthetic fabrics may be used for Devoré. Since effects vary depending upon thread composition and weave, testing is a must. Avoid fabrics
with a permanent finish, i.e. stain resistant, as the etching medium is blocked from contact with the fiber.
Burn out on pure cellulose fabrics removes all the fiber to create
cut work or lace-like patterns. To prevent fraying either satin stitch using a polyester or silk thread or apply fabric paint lined from a resist applicator around the design lines. A tightly woven fabric gives the cleanest edges.
Burn out effects vary greatly on composite fabrics. Testing is a must to determine the finished success. Results are dramatic on silk/rayon velvet with the contrast of the raised pile against the fine
silk netting. Silk/rayon velvet or silk/rayon satin both have a silk gauze backing. The rayon pile or satin from under the etching medium is removed, leaving the fine silk gauze unaffected.
Other composite fabrics may be woven with a cellulose thread running one way and a protein or synthetic thread running the other. After the cellulose fibers are removed floating threads of the protein
or synthetic fibers remain. This is the effect using our silk/cotton fabrics.
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Safety...
Work in a well ventilated area. Sodium Bisulfate is an acid irritant. Use a dust/mist respirator.
Wear rubber gloves, safety goggles and an apron. Avoid contact with skin or eyes.
Do not use metal or aluminum instruments or containers.
Keep out of reach of children and pets.
MSD sheets available upon request.
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The Recipe...
Makes about 2 - 4 cups of paste.
Part A - Thickener...
75 gr (6 Tbs. plus 1 tsp) P-4 Thickener
675 ml (3 cups) of water
Mix in a studio blender or with a hand mixer. Pour about half the water into the blender and gradually add about half the thickener blending gently. Add water as necessary and the rest of the
thickener. Blend until smooth. Let rest a few hours to smooth out.
Part B - The Etching Ingredients...
200 gr (9 Tbs.) Sodium Bisulfate
125 ml ( 1/2 cup) cold water
50 ml (4 Tbs.) glycerin
Measure the water into a glass container (glass jar works well). Add the Sodium Bisulfate and the glycerin and stir well.
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Combine Ingredients...
Mix all of Part B into Part A. Stir thoroughly to combine. A blender may be used but the sodium sulfate may react with the blades if they are metal.
Store in the refrigerator and bring to room temperature before using—good idea to give it another stir too.
This is a very thick mixture that will become thinner over time—shelf life is about 4 weeks. Thin mixtures are still active and may be applied as appropriate and dried with a hair dryer before they
spread out of place.
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Fabric Preparation...
Most fabrics should be washed before the etching process to remove any sizing or impurities. Cellulose fabrics may be washed in a machine
using TNA Detergent and a little Sodium Carbonate. Silk composite fabrics are best washed by hand or on the gentle cycle using TNA Detergent. Rinse well.
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Work Place Preparation...
Fabrics to be silk screened or printed should be on a padded surface. Use terry towels or layers of old sheets folded to provide some give. Cover these with a plastic sheet or garbage bag and secure
to the table with tape if necessary. Fabrics to be etched by hand painting may be placed directly on a plastic covered table.
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Etching Medium Application...
It is vital that the etching medium is applied in an even layer. Uneven application results in thin areas becoming over processed with under processed thicker areas. Over processed areas can cause
holes if working on a delicate silk gauze backed fabric, under processed areas will be resistant to fabric removal.
It is important that the etching medium penetrates all fibers to be removed. Thick fabrics may have to have a two sided application. Apply the medium to the wrong side of silk/rayon velvet or satin to
ensure penetration to the fiber's connecting points.
Silk screening is most reliable for an even application, use 2 or 3 passes for full penetration.
Stenciling with a stencil brush automatically forces the medium into the fiber. A hard piece of plastic such as an old credit card may be pulled over the surface to further even the etching medium.
Block printing or free hand applications using foam brushes can also work if penetration and an even application are kept in mind.
Be sure to test your chosen method.
Allow the fabric to thoroughly dry. A hair dryer may be used to speed up the process.
To apply etching medium from a nozzle topped squeeze bottle, squeeze the bottle slightly, release pressure and spread the medium, "scratching" it into the fabric with the bottle nozzle.
Do not store fabrics containing etching medium as the fabric will deteriorate.
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Processing the Fabric...
The etching medium is activated by heat, it must be completely dry in order to react. If an application error has been made, wash the fabric prior to applying heat and start again.
Silk/rayon velvet or silk/rayon satin can often be processed in a clothes dryer if it runs hot enough, some do not. Run through two one hour cycles. To determine if the fibers are loose test
intermittently by scratching the pile with your finger nail. Be sure to wear a dust mask.
If using an iron to process the silk/rayon velvet or satin use a dry iron on a silk or wool setting. Use a light press cloth and iron on the backside until the fabric turns a light caramel colour.
Keep the iron moving back and forth over the fiber. Test the velvet by scratching the pile with your finger to insure the fibers are loose, if they are not iron again. Do not over process as the
delicate silk netting may be damaged. Direct the heat to under processed areas if necessary.
Once you are sure the fibers are loose, immerse the fabric in water. This prevents the chemically treated fibers from becoming airborne. Agitate and gently rub the cloth until all the pile is gone
from the design areas.
Add a little fabric softener to the last rinse if desired. Omit if the fabric is to be dyed.
Tumble dry the velvet, include a couple of terry towels to help fluff up the pile.
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Other Ideas...
Consider making leaf etched fabric by laying gathered leaves on the fabric and silk screening paste through a blank mesh. The leaves will adhere to the screen after the first pass and may be
moved to another piece of fabric.
Etching cream may also be sponged onto the fabric for an interesting random effect.
Relief effects can be created on very thick velvets or velours as only the surface will be in contact with the etching medium.
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Click here to locate Fiber Etch and Devore Paste Ingredients in our catalogue
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