Indigo Vat Dyeing Cotton

Vat Dyeing Cotton, Linen Or Rayon

Part 1: The Stock Solution...

      Chemical

      Full Size Vat

      Mini Vat

      Indigo

      1 cup (8 oz)

      3 Tbs.

      Lye

      1 cup

      5 tsp.

      Thiourea Dioxide

      2 Tbs.

      1/5 tsp.

    Mix Synthetic Indigo with enough water to make a lump free paste. In a separate container add Lye to 6 cups of hot, 120º F water; (Mini Vat use 1 1/2 cups of water). Set aside to cool. Water should be lukewarm before mixing with Indigo. In another container add Thiourea Dioxide to 1 cup of warm water; (Mini Vat use 1/4 cup of water). Stir gently to dissolve.
    Slowly add the Lye solution to the pasted Indigo, stirring to make as smooth a mixture as possible. Add Thiourea Dioxide solution slowly to avoid making air bubbles. Stir gently from time to time until reduction is complete, that is when the stock solution turns yellow. Set the jar of Stock Solution in a pan of hot water if necessary. Raise the temperature no higher than 135º F for 15 to 30 minutes or until reduction takes place.

Part 2: The Dye Vat...

      Ingredients

      Full Size Vat

      Mini Vat

      Warm Water (120º F)

      20 Gallons

      3 Gallons

      Pure Water softener

      3 Tbs.

      1 tsp.

      Salt

      2 Cups

      1/4 Cup

      Thiourea Dioxide

      4 tsp.

      1/2 tsp.

    Put warm water into a dye bath container. Stir in the Pure Water Softener and Salt. Add the pre dissolved Thiourea Dioxide and stir gently. Add reduced Stock Solution by carefully lowering the container into the Dye Vat and sliding the liquid out at an angle. Stir gently. After 30 to 60 minutes the vat should be a clear greenish-yellow with a shiny dark blue metallic surface. The vat is then ready to use. If the vat is not clear and greenish-yellow in color wait an additional 30 to 60 minutes. It can take as long as 6 hours for proper reduction.

    Maintaining The Indigo Vat...

    Every precaution must be taken to keep oxygen out of an Indigo Vat!!! Use a deep vessel with a narrow top as your dye vat to minimize exposure to air. When adding additional Stock Solution or dissolved chemicals to the vat, do not pour them in. Lower the container into the vat and slide the liquid out at an angle.

    Using The Indigo Vat...

    Before dyeing machine wash the fabric on hot cycle or by hand as hot as possible with 1/2 tsp. TNA Detergent and 1/2 tsp. Sodium Carbonate per pound of fabric. Rinse thoroughly.

    Thoroughly wet fabrics before dipping in the vat. A warm water soak for 15 to 30 minutes is recommended. Wearing gloves, squeeze out excess water evenly. Gently push the dark blue scum aside before putting the fabric into the vat. Where scum clings to the cloth it will look dark blue. After dyeing is complete the dark blue scum washes off the surface, leaving a light undyed area. Lower the fabric into the vat very gently and allow it to sink gradually without splashing. Working below the surface of the vat slowly manipulate the cloth. This will help the dye penetrate. Keep fabric submerged for the duration of each dip, 2 to 3 minutes. Do not swish the fabric around in the vat. Gently squeeze out excess below the surface before removing the fabric. Do not allow the fabric to drip into the vat when removing. Rinse in a basin of room temperature water. Let fabric oxidize (turn blue) for approximately 15 minutes. Repeat dipping and oxidizing until the desired depth of blue is obtained. After washing the final color will be one to two shades lighter. Dry completely before untying. After final dip and the fabric has oxidized: Soak for 10 minutes in room temperature water to which 2 Tbs. White Distilled Vinegar per gallon has been added. Rinse thoroughly. Heat to 130º to 140º F for 10 minutes in a generous bath with Ivory Flakes. Stir occasionally. Rinse until water is clear then dry the fabric.

    Troubleshooting The Dye Vat...

     If the vat appears grayish and watery, it is exhausted. This means that all the indigo has been used. An addition of Stock Solution is needed.

    If the vat has been left for a few days, it may need to be "sharpened" with a small amount (1/2 tsp. for full sized vat) Thiourea Dioxide, dissolved in water and very rarely with Lye.

    If the vat changes from yellow-green to blue, or if blue specks appear, more Thiourea Dioxide is needed. Add a small amount (1/2 tsp. for Full Size Vat) dissolved in water. Stir gently, wait 15 minutes and check vat again before dyeing.

    If white specks appear or the vat appears "milky" add a small amount of Lye (1 tsp. for Full Size Vat) dissolved in 1/2 cup of water. Stir gently. Wait 15 minutes and check vat again before dyeing.

    Occasionally, more than one addition of Thiourea Dioxide or Lye is required to revive a vat. Use small amounts and wait 15 to 20 minutes between additions, testing each time. Excess alkali or reducing agent can unbalance the vat, making it impossible to build up deep shades. Be patient and the vat will have a long life.

    Always dissolve Thiourea Dioxide and Lye in water before adding to the dye vat. Do not add dry flakes.

    Cover with a tight fitting lid when not in use.
    If the dye washes off the fabric, there is too little reducing agent, (Thiourea Dioxide).

    If the dye rubs off, (crocking off), there is too little alkali, (Lye).

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